Day 17

BNack to a full days work. My Salwar suit was filthy and sweaty before I even got there. Morning class passed without drama but then had to spend 30 mins with wee David on my knee to stop him crying. He’s 3 but looks more like a 1 year old with his baldy head. His eyes look wordly wise. He is one of 7 (5 of which come to STARS) but they live with his father who is an alcoholic.

This afternoon only had 2 boys in class. Bishal had to go home as his mum is sick. Two sisters werer also absent as there mum is real bad – probably dying – the neighbour in the slum beat her up and broke her ribs cos she was beating up the kids. The neighbours always seem to know whats going on and interfering, but I guess they all live in such close quarters it is hard to ignore.

It really is amazing toi see them all smiling and eager to learn and play. but I am exhausted now.

Pappu showeed up for my 3 pm class and we have started reading Greyfriars Bobby. He calls me sister instead of auntie! Even when I use my name with the kids they call me Stephanie-auntie.

Crowed bus ride home. Still surprised we all managed to get off at our stop.

Strange Soya chunk things for dinner – I’m saure it must be good for me??? I miss meat.

Day 16

Went into stars but as it is May day here too we we were able to leave at lunch time. Only 10 kids showed up so we played and made paer-mache then organised them for lunch before leaving. Unexpected treat so LA and I went to the beuaty parlour for some pampering (90p for leg waxing!) and chilled out to a movie in the afternoon. Bollywood but in English so was relaxing. We paid 10 rupees extra to get the “Royal Delux” seats which were big leathjer arm chairs. PLus was bliss to be in aircon for 2 hours. The movie “Mistress opf Spices” was passable and even amusing.

The neighbour on the 13 floor ( we are on the 5th) must have got wind that we were British as she has invited us round on Wednesday to talk to her – she wants to practise her accent – not sure if LA and I are the best examples but she might give us tea!

Day15

Another chilled out day at the water park for me and LA. We couldn't face any more dirty streets so treated ourselves to a taxi ride and wenrt to wet and wild again. Much mnore confident this time as now know are way about. Was swimming about lazily minding my yown business when two guys (about late 20's) approached me and asked me to teach them to swim. But its my day off I wanted to scream but as it was very brave of them to ask a girl for help I obliged. It weas soon apparent that we would have to strat at the beginning with the doggy paddle to grasp the concept of kicking with straight legs. very amusing and later that day I spied them stil practising and they waved over at me!

Throughout the day we were interviewed by several groups of young men, offered a lift home and food and drinks. Politely declined – I keep wanting to correct their english when they ask me "from what country are you coming?" – I guess it is force of habit now!

day 13

Wash day for the kids. After our morning test ( which they all guessed – but at least they understand the concept of not cheating) they wrapped themselves in a towel and Sonu (who works with us) tips ladels of water over them and rubs shampoo in. I then helped rinse and comb hair. Was an amusing hour and not one of the kids complained when the cold water was poured over them. They stood as quite as mice when i combed their tatts.

Got a lift on the back of a bike to the bus stop which was fun and after a quick shower we got a rickshaw to Sucharitas for her Friday evening concert. Her grandchildren had many friends over and they entertained us with singing (hindi and english) and we were encouraged to join in! These kids are well educated and speak almost perfect english (7-10 years old).

Lovely snacks for supper – different types of puri and bengali sweets and Sucharita favourite sponge cake.

Still too hot for sleep.

Day 14

Yeah, it’s saturday. Back to Garihat to the Saree shops to buy some gifts etc and this time we managed to get some 7-up, chocolate bars and chai. In the jewellary stores they don’t have everything sitting out – you simply ask for whatever you want and they give you a huge selection which was hidden behind some magic door. You don’t get ppeace to just browse though as they always want to show you something else!

Found a large air-con shoppping mall to hide from the sun for awhile. Then a rickety bus ride into New market as had to visit the talior to get saree blouses made – all very complex. Lots of measurements taking and had great craic trying to explain that Nuala and Neelam were about “this” much taller than me! I hope they got it! Will see next week.

We decided to treat ourse;lves to dinner out and went to B B Q as recommended in Lonely PLanet. Was amazing food and a huge restaurant. Still takes me by surprise to see such modern – plush places in such a poor city. And is was bunged. We were leaving at 9:30 and about 30 people were queuing for a table.

The restaurant was divided into half chinese food and half Tandoori. Us being the only white people were allowed to order off the two menus – perhaps this was frwoned upon but they were very attentive to us.

If you ever find yourself hungry in Calcutta go here and have the Aloo Dopiaza or the veg pan-fried noodles. Naan bread good!

On the bus ride home a wee girl (7) was chatting to me. She was with her dad and he kept telling her to talk . She asked me back to her house but I explained it was 10:30 and I had to go to sleep!
The temperature was 29.9oC at 10pm. Too hot to sleep.

Buses here may be falling apart but at least there are lots of them and now feel more comfortable using them.

day 12

Election day in Calcutta so unexpected day off. Appreciated a lie in then got a taxi into town. Eeril;y quiet. Was very strange to see such a bustling city deserted. Luckily Flurry’s was open so we managed a nice lunch but most of the shops were shut. Navigated our way in the metro to The Maidan and had a wonder over to the Victoria Memorial. The metro is surprisingly easy to use (it only goes north or south) and at 4 ruppees and air-con it beats walking or the bus!

Victoria memorial was huge and we wondered through the surrounding gardens. The Maidan is a huge expanse of green park land running along side the river Hooghly. WIth a race course and numerous cricket areas it is weird to think that such an over-crowded city can have such a large amount of “empty land”.

As most places were closed we got the metro to the Kalighat temple which is a place many pilgrims come to pray. had to ask several locals fopr directions. Difficult to find as it is tucked in behinmd lots of buildings and doesn’t look as impressive as I was expecting. A priest took us for a tour and explained al the idols etc. Luckily we had missed the morning sacrifice- 45 goats that day. He did try to swindle money out of us for the “poor” people but we gave a tip then left.
Lots of people praying but felt a bit funny walking through the streets in barefeet to get to the inner temple – bit.

Taxi ride home as buses not running. Too hot for sleep.

day 11

Day started early as had to be at STARS for 7am so up at bus stop for 6:30. At least it was a bit cooler at that time. We had an outing.
GHow many kids can you fit in a taxi – 4 boys in the front, 4 girls inthe back and 2 teachers – quite impresssive! Some of the kids were preforming at a local church school assembly. Yasmine likes to raise awarebbess of her project. The primary school was huge, with a big assembly hall, drum kit and piano. We sat in the front row and all the kids piled in in their school uniforms. SOme lent us their hymn books so we had to join in! Was interesting to see how the well- to-do Calcuttans live. All the kids were so much bigger than our kids!

The whole assembly was in English, in fact all the school work is in english. Yasmine said a few words and introudcued us which was slightly embarrasssing then the kids performed their pieces and did really well. Was very different to see how disiplined the school kids were – the headmistress was telling them off for not sitting orderly etc! We then had to stay for tea (chai) and biscuits, funny spicy things and sweets.

The primary one classes were performing a healthy eating project which we were invited to stay and watch. It was really sweet but our kids couldn’t understand a lot of it.

Back to STARS for our daily dose of choas. We can’t be as strict as a “proper” schol as then the kids wouldn’t bother coming. Thats what makes our job more taxing!

Finished work after lunch due to early start. Had a nap and then Laura Georgie and I went Sarree shopping. Were really brave and got bus all by ourselves – quite an adventure. Took an hour to get to Golpark and after muchj looking purchased many sarees. Wuite an experience walking in to a proper sarree shop. Rows of men just sit behind a counter waiting for a customer. So in we would go, take a seat, tell tehm what we wanted, and display after diplay would be put in front of us. We were quite fussy! Had tea, a bottle of mountain Dew and a bottle of water all for free from various shops! Much fun.

Bus ride home was perhaps one of the most scary things I have ever experienced. Bearing in mind it took 1 hour to get three, we got home in 25 mins and the bus was filled and I mean about 300 people with nmore hanging on outside. No idea how we managed to get off but I didn’t even need to hold on as the people all around me kept me in one place! A good value experience at only 6 rupees.

Finally feel like I have my bearings and know my way around.
Must practise saree wearing.

Day 10

Day 9 was stinky hot and even the kids were low in energy. We were given a long lunch and allowed to have a lie down in Yamines house. Was dark and cool which was bliss. Afternoon class was a bit hectic but we are all prficient in telling the time so objective achived! NOt brave enough yet to introdcue the 24 hour clock – maybe next week!

The senior boys had a cricket match against another organisation so at 4pm we went to watch. Not really sure how the whole scoring thing works but the bowling was impressive  – and they all play bare foot. One of the boys lent me his baseball cap and he was worried I'd get sun stroke and sick and he wouldn't have any more english lessons!

 Day 10 was stinky hot again. Each day feels worse. Sonu – who works at STARS – took me and Laura for a walk round the slum. JUst narrow alley ways with low shacks, tin roofs and divided in to tiny cubilces. A family of 6 sleeps in an area the size or our shower room. The roofs were all decorated brightly as the ladies had their sarees out to dry. Kids run around half clothed and there is only room for one person to walk at a time. Drains run down the side of the path but oddly it didn't smell to bad. We went to visit one girls who is dumb. She can hear but won't speak. Her mum, who looked younger than me explained that she could only make noises and didn't want to play woth the other kids as they make fun of her. They invited us into their "house@ after having itswept it out especially. The baby was sitting on the floor eating frice with his hands.  There wasn't room to stand so we sat on the floor which is where they sleep and tried talking to them with Sonus help. The dad gacve us some drinks. Had to accpet to be polite (they re very proud people) but I shared mine with some kids. Most of tyhe kids were lying around sleeping as they had nothing else to do. Now we can see why they all run around so much at STARS – at home they have no space to do anything except sit!

 Had 2 new boys in my afternoon class. They go to school but come to STARS at 4pm to practise. They gave me sweets (Bengalies like there sweeets but I'm not a fan – had to eat it to be polite!) On Friday they are going to teach me Hindi instead of me teaching them – should be interesting???

 LA not feeling well so had  today off. I think the heat must be getting to her as we are all ewating the same stuff.  Hopefully a days rest will do the trick

Day 8

Day 7  – multiple gat sightings (and I mena hundreds)

Day 6 was a hot one.  Luckily kids didn’t get washed today ( Yasmine was worried some had head llice so best we stay away). My test showed that my wee girls have no concept of colour and everything is pink (prbably cos that is the easiest to spell). Still at least they managed the simple addition. Its really hard having to start at the very beginning.Friday is fun day soi we spent the afternoon doing dances and playing musical chairs. Very tiring – then had my afternoon class of 3 boys where we discussed “what I will do at the weekend” – future tense!

Forgot to mention we have a western toilet at STARS whoch is only for volunteers – bliss!

Day 7 was an early start to go to the foreign tourist train ticket office. Luckily Sucharita came with the 4 of us (all in the same taxi – there are no road rules here at all) as the ticket purchasing process was not as straight forward as we had hoped! Had to change our dates so we could get a sleeper car and it took ages to work out what train we could and couldn’t get. So anyway we seem to be leaving Calcutta on 5th May at 10pm travelling to NJP for 12 hours then a 3hour jeep ride up to Darjeeling. I hope the teas worth it. Still , t least the ticket office was air-con.
Headed to Flury’s for brunch ( a very popular expensive place – posh by indian standards) and treated ourselves to scrambled egg on toast followed by pancakes, bliss. Definetly recommend it for tea and cakes (will be going back!). Then we threw ourselves into the maze of markets and stalls surrounding the new market area. Really hot and busy but that didn’t stop the haggling. EVERYONE wants to sell you something. nd just when you are standing in the shade to cool down you feel a wee tug on your shirt and a 3-4 year old is looking up at you with big eyes. It is really hard to ignore them but when possible we buy them some fruit from a stall rather than give money (mostly the money doesn’t go to them).
The weird thing about Calcutta is that despite the dirt (it is FILTHY) and people hassling you, and the heat, you can still enjoy the city. Some shops take you by surprise – a fancy book shop just like Waterstones or an upmarket music store can be found nestled in amongst the street sellers.
It starts getting dark at 5:50 and then by 6 it is black. We jumped in a taxi so we could go see the Howrah bridge but by the time we got there it was dark! Was awesome to just stand there on the bridge, gettin gblown away and look out over the city. Kids were bathing below in the river and pedestrians and cyclists were battling against the wind, rushing across. The bridge is huge and you can feel it wobble under your feet.

And then the rain came out of nowhere. Got a taxi back to the centre but naturally jumped in one that had no lights and no windscreen washers – an interesting ride.
Soaked to the skin we went into little emporium and were ushered upstairs and shown an amzing display of scarves, sarees and all sorts ( whatever we wated he could sell us. After much discussion over prrices he got us some chai (I tried lemon flavour this time – refreshing!) and took measurements for our saree tops. I think we were there for about an hour but was entertaining.

Georgie took us to the LIndsayhotel which she had been to before for dinner. The ground floor was a building site which we had to climb over to get to the lift. Was a bit dubious but there was a nice restaurant on the ninth floor which had good views and a clean toilet. Had some mixed veg curry thing (delicious) and naan. mmmmm.
We were filthy and tired from all the rain so treated ourselves to a taxi ride home (150 rupees)

Day 8. Day trip to Nico Park. This is theme park just outside the city. We went straight to the wet and wild section (200 rupees). The four of us stood out in our swim suits but were too hot to care. IN fact there were hardly any women swimming anyway, and those who were were fully clothed. Tried the slides etc but spent most of today in the wave pool. Heaps of people wanted to talk to us to see where we were from and what we were doing in India. Some even shook hands. Getting used to it now. Today we felt a million miles away from the slums. Was so relaxing to feel cold.

Day 5

Hot today -2 cow sightings (one was on a lead)

Sucharita (our in-country co-ordinator) who is an absolute star gave us a lift to work this morning as treat. We had been getting the bus but it is so manic (even if it is only 5 rupees – 2p). Last night we met some other volunteersd at Sucharoitas house for tea and cake. She is spoling us all which is cool! Had a rickshaw ride to hers then a lift home. LA and I laughed over every bump in the road. S's house is out in the middle of nowhere so it doesn't feel like you are in Calcutta.

Getting used to wearing my Salwaar Kamise – indian tunic baggy thing – but is really hot, especially when the kids climb over you to say hello. They are so ezxcited to see us every morning – they all come and shake hands.

Tomorrow is test day so we are doing colours and addition. I have about 8 kids in the morning who are beginners, then an average group after lunch who are insane and hyper. Then three lovely boys come at 3pm for 1 hour of english practise. Very tiring but fun. We have also been told Friday is bath- day so we will see how that goes.

 Looking forward to the weekend!