Holy Cow

Day 28

stephclougher — Wed, 17 May 2006 10:30:42 +0000

Saturday. Everyone (even strangers we meet on the bus) is concerned about us going on our own to Delhi and Goa. Sucharita has given us her daughters number in Delhi, the man on 13th floor has said he has a bank manager friend in Goa if we need anything and everyone has warned us how hot it is going to be and to be careful etc etc.

Sucharita even came over to our apartment early on today to organize a taxi for us. She wrote down his name and the cab number and told him under no circumstances was he to charge us any extras! Was sad saying good-bye to her as she has been so good to us. Now we are on our own

Calcutta domestic airport was very calm. Nothing like the train station. Heaps of security checks and we hardly had to queue for the Spice Jet desk. Plane left on time and we were given a bottle of water and a biscuit. Arrived Delhi at 8:40 but had to wait ages for luggage. Luckily our Hotel (the Clark International – booked through STA) offers a free airport tranferr so someone was waiting for us outside the terminal with our names on a card. Was the best feeling ever to know we didn’t have to haggle over a taxi fare. About 30 min drive to hotel. Seems ok. Air con and bathroom plus breakfast so can’t complain. Already getting hassled from the guy who met us at the airport to take us on a tour tomorrow. Wouldn’t mind so much only they are really sneaky about uit. Casually ask what your plans are and what you want to see then say :”so what time shall we start tomorrow???” AHHHHH. Sometimes you just want to be left alone for 5 mins

Dinner on hotels roof top[ restaurant but much too hot to sit outside. The airhostess announced it was 37oC when we landed! 10pm by the time we were eating so not many people around. SO far Delhi seems much calmer then Calcutta. Still hasn’t sunk in that I don’t have to go to work on

Day 27

stephclougher — Wed, 17 May 2006 10:30:04 +0000

Last time I have to walk to work, get a Calcutta bus and be surrounded my 50 under 5’s ( I hope). We did our last ever test, played some games and all after the afternoon bathing session we danced. Was fun to watch the boys enjoying dancing. Some of them were really good. There appeared to be some set moves but even with some coaching I was not up to their standard. I will have to work on that for Neelam’s wedding. Just before we left some of the kids did a special dance performance for us and presented us with a “star” keyring which was made in their workshop. They all shouted their thank-yous and then we were off. Was annoyed I didn’t get to say good-bye to Bishal and Pappu but all the others were very sweet when we hugged goodbye.

Finished off some packing then tried to get into our saris for Sucharita coming. I didn’t do a bad job getting Laura dressed but struggled a bit on my own. S came at 7:30 and tidied us up. Taxi straight to Peter Cat Restarant on Park street. Doorman complete with turban showed us in and we had to delicately climb up some stairs to our table(need to practise stairs and going to the toilet in sari!!)

Restaurant was very atmospheric – a braved the “harem Joy” which was “passionately recommended” on the menu. Chicken with lovely spicy sauce thing, mmmmmmm. All the food looked good. LA and I treated S but the whole bill only came to 2 pounds for the five of us to have two course each.

Day 26

stephclougher — Wed, 17 May 2006 10:29:17 +0000

Can’t believe only have one more day at work. And we are all doing so well at learning our manners. I was also tired of hearing “How are you? I am fine” being rhymed off all the time so I have done a lesson on “feelings” eg I am happy, I am hot, I am thirsty etc etc. hey still say I am fine until I glare at them then they remember. Also worked on She/he is – some of them have grasped it!

Got back home and ready for our outing to the 13^th floor. We arrived at 8:30 and had a chat before dinner. Both are really nice but I imagine the wife would be a good giggle if her husband wasn’t there – he is a bit more serious. He normally works 14 hours a day (bank manager) and his wife laughs that she hardly sees him and often has to phone him to have a conversation. She seems ok with it but I think that is one of the reasons they want to move to Canada. Also, there is a lot of pressure of children in India to progress highly in education, but at the end of it even people with degrees have to drive taxis as not enough jobs. They were actually very interesting to talk to.

The dinner table was only set for 4 (as they thought there wouldn’t be enough room) so they stood chatting while we ate. LA and I have chicken curry but I ate most of LA’s as she doesn’t like meat on the bone. There was also,\ a kidney bean thing, paneer curry stuff and beautiful cumin rice. I even managed to eat some Bengali sweets they set out. He laughed at me eating the sweets with my left hand – I completely forgot! Even these people would normally eat with their hands! I just blethered away to them and I think it was obvious I enjoyed the food! Nice to have a “proper” Indian meal in a real home.

Day 25

stephclougher — Tue, 16 May 2006 12:05:04 +0000

Normal day at work tried some morew smelling to build up vocab and worked on manners wioth the older boys. Real hot sao not as many kids turn up. IT is difficult to make progress as not every kid turns up every day. Many have to stay at home to look after the babies if the mother is sick or has run off which often happens). And when there are different levels in the class it is tiring trying to keep everyone interested. Glad to get home and shpower today. Kali had left us a snack of noodles (yummy) as we are off the Sucharitas for dinner. It is Didi (her grand-daughter) 10th birthday.
We brought out saris and Sucharita helped us dress. We all looked glam. Sat outside watching the kids play their party games, had the hugest cake ever and waited for the bufft. It started to rain slightly but in Sucharita laid-back manner she simply said “so what?” and insited everyone reamin outside for dinner.
Food was amasing with waiters to dish it out. Finally had some meat, yippee. Had fish and a chicken curry thing and rice and some lentil spicey thing and S had specially prepared a “SAfe” saad for us which was divine. About 50 people came and went – all thrugh the even ing people were arriving and others leaving. Was strange to see such well-dressed civalised people eating with their hands.

A family gave me and Laura a lift home and he was most hapy to hear I as from N Ireland and talked abut Irish Lit the whole way home. We wqere grately admired in our saris and as Laura and I walked down the road to our apartment a couple stopped to say how good we looked and even noted that I walked “Elegantly”. The security man on the door was all smiles and said we were very beautiful.

Day 24

stephclougher — Tue, 16 May 2006 11:56:30 +0000

Smal girl at STARS told amine her dad had beaten up her mum yesterday and she was worried. Ater mortning lessons, LA and I went with Rima to visit her home. She held my hand as we walked towards a small shack on the side of the road. The “Door” was covered with a sack and the mother was lying curled up inside. We took of our shoes (no matter what size the home they try to keep it clean). Shack about 4 x 4ft with two sehelves and a couple of nails with plastic bags hanging from them, The girl played with er two pieces of lego (her only possessions) as we attempted to communicate with the mum. Turns out she was hit as there was no food for dinner yesterday. No visible signs but she mimed he hit her on the back and sides. We met the dad too (again 3 Pepsis appeared!) and he was a tiny, ugly wee man. Stayed about 45 mins – I think the wee girl was happy just knowing we had been to visit. After lunch it started to rain and rain and rain. The kids loved it and many stripped to their pants and went out playing and danciong. We thought it had stopped so made a dash for the bus stop only to get soaked half-way there! Actually felt cold and in 2 mins were drippng with rain.
TO make matters worse we had to g into town to pick up our Sari blouses from the tailor – Jaysters – excellent if you need a sari blouse).

FYI – the 206 or the 1B bus goes from Big Bazaar ro Golpark and you ca walk to Garihat – good shopping. Or from Ruby hosptal you can get a bus to take you into Park Street – Rs6.

There was some sport of celebration music and dance concert outside out apartment with many local residents performing. The family on the 13th floor invited us down to watch. We are having dinner with them on Thursday!

Drinking weekend

stephclougher — Tue, 16 May 2006 11:48:08 +0000

Left the apratment just after 8pm and went to Sealdh station (Rs 200 in taxi). Took 40 mins but every taxi ride breaks a new record ・today was the most near misses. He was weaving in and out across junctions like a maniac.

Station was bigger than youir average airport with platforms as far as the eye could see. There were people sleepin, kids begging, men carrying huge piles and buckets on their heads, ladies in fancy saris, families with hundreds of bags of luggages. It was just like I wanted it to be.

At first it looks like choas but when you sit and watch everone knows where they are going ・even the station kids have their own teritory.

LA felt a bit disturbed but was better when we got on the train. At 9:30 we head to platform 9B for the 10:05 (RS 600 ・return ・bargain). Digital overhead numbers signal the position of each carriage and as we struggle through the masses of people and luggage are all these people going to fit on one train・) we starin to find carraigae S3. Mistakingly we get onto AS3 ・whoops as it took us 10 mins to argue our way back off again. The train strecthed for what felt t\like over a mile and after a further 10 min walk we find S3. Bargin berth -墨on AC openm window with 3 fans. Actually a lot more comfortable than you would think and we are sharing our 田ubicle・with a french couple. Georgie and I ARE ON THE TWO TOP BERTHS. I.樽 LOVING IT!

Men wonder through the train and outside on the platform selling chai anmd sweets. Train leaves at 22:06. Thre are 80 beds in our carriage but many kids are sharing with their parents so there could well be 100 people ・6 white! I counted 15 carriages. One western toilet and one Indian ・both usuable at the end of carriage. (you can see the tracks moving under the toilet!)

After 12 alll lights were out and everyone was surprisingly quiet. Slept on and off until 5am We were at a station and I got the distinct impression they had some Chai for sale, what with the constant roars of 田hai chai chai chai・continuing with \out a pausefor the duration of our stop. Hands would appear through the window with tiny cups of steaming liquid. I ma actuially getting used to the sweet milky tea. Men patroll the train with bucket sized teapots ( Rs4)

Got 砥p・at 6:45 to stare at the country side outside. Very flat farm land ・nice after three weeks in smoggy Calcutta. Everyone outside has started their days work. Women in saris are woerking in the fields, men plough wioth cattle ・no machinery anywhere. Very peaceful and beautiful.

All of a sudden, without warning we arrive at NJP at 8:40. The trip passed quickly.

By 9 we had negiotiated a price for the jeep up to Darjeeling (RS150 ・which is over the odds but it is election weekend and there are no0t as many drivers). How many can you fit in a regular sized jeeop. 14 including the driver! A family of 4 in the front with the driver, 4 adults in the middle and 5 adults sitting side-ways iin theback. Luggage on the roof !
As no-one ever seems to rush themselves here we didn稚 leave until 9:30. Very cosy and bumppy for our 4.5 hour trip. The 典oy Train・runs on narrow tracks along the road, winding its way up the hill. Can see why it takes the train 8 ・ hours, with chickens, monkey, cricket games and traffic jams all blocking the tracks. It might be a pretty view but would recommned the jeep ride instead!

It should take 3 ・3.5 and we were making good time until we hit a random village traffic jam that kept us almost stationary for 1 hour. N many [parts of the road it is only wide enough for one car at a time. But as everyone tries to get through anyway, no-one gets anywhere

All the locals up here lok very different to Calcuttans. Tibetan-nepalese features (roundier faces) but most dressed in saris. The air is getting cooler and you can smell the difference. Continued up-hill for and by :40 we arrived. 15oC up here. Darjeeling is like a large simple village from yester-year. Little traffic ( no rickshaws as too hilly), only simply shops or stalls, no chain restaurants or big hotels, just very calming. We had to plod helplessly to find Andy’s Guest House (RS400 per room per night), which is nice – basic but clean. Had lunch in Fiesta overlooking the main square, not recommended for lunch but they do very good porridge and French toast for breakfast.

As this is a weeknd treat we decided to visit the Windamere (posh hotel) for afternoon tea. Were quite surprised when the receptioniost \told us it would be Rs 250 for tea and cake (that’s only 3pounds 50 but when you think it is more than our guest house per prson, it felt like a lot – your perception of expensive changes when ou are here)

Still, we sat in the garden and considered the view down into the valley as an waiter dressed in old-fashioned uniform served us two huge pots of Darjeeling tea, and a plate each of cucumber sandwiches, two bits of banana cake and a cinnamen twist – mmmmmm, good. Got chatting to a nice middle-aged group of hikers who were staying in the Windamere. They were very interested in our work in Calcutta and even offered to get us more cake form inside the hotel (they have a free tea buffet for guests!).

We gave the waitor our Rs1000 but then the receptionist came back out with I and explained “the English gentleman had paid for us”. We were al very touched as this was a big amount opf money for us (though not a lot in western terms!) and it cheered us all day.
The inside of he Windamere looks just like it must have during the Raj. Open fire was lit and the bathroom was huge- very elegant.

Many Tibetan craft stalls and shops- no hassle from shop-keepers whoch makes a ncie change. Darjeeling prone to power cuts – most stalls are lit by candles or gas lamps – luckily we brought our torches as several times lights went out in the hotel – gets dark about 6pm.
We went to Glenary’s for dinner – v good Jalfrezie. By 9:30 the whole place is still and quiet

Wondered through the maze of the chowk bazaar. Lunch in Glenary’s pattiserie – good cakes and tea. Smelt different tea, bought mush (there is a huge range in price. Had afternoon tea and cookies in “the Tea House”. Tried white tea, green tea and sunshine Sherry. Dinner tonight was in Delwinney hotel – Tibetan food good – the bread is a must.

Tried to get up at 4 on Monday to go to Tiger Hill to watch sunrise over the Himalayas. But raining heavy and low mist so no jeeps going. Bck to bed – will see them another time.

Wondered about in th drizzle and had lunch I the Park hotel – good food, recommnedit.

Election day so most stuff clopsed. Eventually found a jeep driver to bring us back down to Siliguri but had to pay extra. Did mean it was just the 4 of us which was heaps more cmfotable. IN Ghoom the please wouldn’t let us go thrugh so we had to take a detour and go the long way. Stopped to admire Nepal fom across the valley then all of a sudden we stopped in a small village with a boarder check point. This was an entry point into Nepal and the driver let us have a walk to nosey. He spoke to the offical scary man with gun at the check point who then let us walk through so we cvould take a picture in Nepal. Not allowed to stay long or take pictures of the “India” sign or the boarder but was amusing to have everyone looking at us.

Stopped off in another wee town – Mikak to admire the lake and strech our legs. Most of the way down was through the most beautiful tea plantations. I was in heaven. The driver told us which were the good tea and whoch not. Most have been making good time as we made another stop in some random place to have chai. The driver bought us each a cup and showed us to the “toilet” If you gotta go you gotts go – even LA braved it – there was no light which is probably a good thing.Back at NJP for 6:20 (gave driver a tip[ as he had made the trip down really interes\ting. Tain o time, left at 7:40 prompt. Have berths parallel to the window which time.

Arrived back at 6:30 and got taxi back to flat by 7am. Time for an hours kip before ready for work! Much tea and fun was had by all –very relaxing. Hot and bothered now we are back to the madness.

Day 20

stephclougher — Tue, 16 May 2006 11:18:57 +0000

Friday ・Day 20

Friday is test day in the morning (half of them seem to have an idea of what they are doing ・Pushpa and Sonbai are doing well in maths for those who were concerned!) then fun day in the afternoon.

They all have a sleep in the creche area and at 2pm its bath time. Still amazes me how much they love it. Only the volunteers around so Georgie and I washed them and did the shampooing while LA and Laura dried, combed hair and moisturised. Games and dancing all afternoon ・not as easy as it sounds ・the more active they are the more hyper they become! Hard to believe these where the same kids sitting quiet as mice this morning!

Rushed home as we had to pack for Darjeeling.

Day 19

stephclougher — Thu, 04 May 2006 13:26:49 +0000

The fanily in flat 13 B1 were lovely. We had a cold lemon drink and bombay mix sweet stuff. They're english is perfect but as they want to move to Canada they wanbt to practise their accent and pronunication – not sure if LA and I are the best examples but they were very interesting to talk to – plus we have a dinner invite!

Long day at work today. IO was standing buy the board at 11am and could feel sweat running dowen my legs – not attractive! I had drunkj 1 litre before class even started.

No english this afternoon as the room was talking over with dancing and musical chairs. Was exhausted as everyone wanted to dance with "auntie"

Had to change travellers cheques today which tyakes forever. No matter what you try to do you are faced with bureaucracy and form filling. It takes 2 guys 30 minutes to change one persons cheques! Gettign used to how long everytjhing takes here. Also , when you go into a shop there are more staff than customers – their way of keeping employment levels up – theres 2 guys to take your bags, several security and heaps of sales people milling around. However, it still takes forever to buy bread!

Must dash. As a treat Kali has prepared pasta for tea and Sucharita is visiting to check we are ok for our weekend trip.

Day 19

stephclougher — Thu, 04 May 2006 13:26:16 +0000

Long day at work today. IO was standing buy the board at 11am and could feel sweat running dowen my legs – not attractive! I had drunkj 1 litre before class even started.

No english this afternoon as the room was talking over with dancing and musical chairs. Was exhausted as everyone wanted to dance with "auntie"

Must dash. As a treat Kali has prepared pasta for tea and Sucharita is visiting to check we are ok for our weekend trip.

Day 18

stephclougher — Wed, 03 May 2006 14:15:22 +0000

Actually got a seat on the bus this morning, luxury (though you get sweatier sitting down with your bag on your knee compared to standing, but the breeze through the window is better)

Managed to spend 30 mins playing in a circle with a ball. SO long as you keep them occupied they are as good as gold. Decided to work on manners this afternoon so nhave now drilled “please may i etc etc”

WIll see how well it has worked tomorrow. No-one is allowed to go to the bathroom (well, hole in the ground!) unless they say it correctly, could cause many accidents!!!

The last time we went out for dinner we didn’t eat it all so asked for a doggy bag. Found a wee boy lyiong on the street and I bent down to see if he was awake. Showed himm the food and had to mime eating for him to understand. He didn’t start eating til I walked away, even then he wasn’t able to sit upo but just lay there putting his hand in his mouth. Was a difficult but good thing to be able to do. Now I always carry my extra chapatises with me for when I see the street children (to be honest, I’m a bit tired of them anyway

Must go visit the lady on the 13th floor now. I hope she has more original questions than the usual “are you married? and What is it you are doing? etc!!!