Left the apratment just after 8pm and went to Sealdh station (Rs 200 in taxi). Took 40 mins but every taxi ride breaks a new record ・today was the most near misses. He was weaving in and out across junctions like a maniac.
Station was bigger than youir average airport with platforms as far as the eye could see. There were people sleepin, kids begging, men carrying huge piles and buckets on their heads, ladies in fancy saris, families with hundreds of bags of luggages. It was just like I wanted it to be.
At first it looks like choas but when you sit and watch everone knows where they are going ・even the station kids have their own teritory.
LA felt a bit disturbed but was better when we got on the train. At 9:30 we head to platform 9B for the 10:05 (RS 600 ・return ・bargain). Digital overhead numbers signal the position of each carriage and as we struggle through the masses of people and luggage are all these people going to fit on one train・) we starin to find carraigae S3. Mistakingly we get onto AS3 ・whoops as it took us 10 mins to argue our way back off again. The train strecthed for what felt t\like over a mile and after a further 10 min walk we find S3. Bargin berth -墨on AC openm window with 3 fans. Actually a lot more comfortable than you would think and we are sharing our 田ubicle・with a french couple. Georgie and I ARE ON THE TWO TOP BERTHS. I.樽 LOVING IT!
Men wonder through the train and outside on the platform selling chai anmd sweets. Train leaves at 22:06. Thre are 80 beds in our carriage but many kids are sharing with their parents so there could well be 100 people ・6 white! I counted 15 carriages. One western toilet and one Indian ・both usuable at the end of carriage. (you can see the tracks moving under the toilet!)
After 12 alll lights were out and everyone was surprisingly quiet. Slept on and off until 5am We were at a station and I got the distinct impression they had some Chai for sale, what with the constant roars of 田hai chai chai chai・continuing with \out a pausefor the duration of our stop. Hands would appear through the window with tiny cups of steaming liquid. I ma actuially getting used to the sweet milky tea. Men patroll the train with bucket sized teapots ( Rs4)
Got 砥p・at 6:45 to stare at the country side outside. Very flat farm land ・nice after three weeks in smoggy Calcutta. Everyone outside has started their days work. Women in saris are woerking in the fields, men plough wioth cattle ・no machinery anywhere. Very peaceful and beautiful.
All of a sudden, without warning we arrive at NJP at 8:40. The trip passed quickly.
By 9 we had negiotiated a price for the jeep up to Darjeeling (RS150 ・which is over the odds but it is election weekend and there are no0t as many drivers). How many can you fit in a regular sized jeeop. 14 including the driver! A family of 4 in the front with the driver, 4 adults in the middle and 5 adults sitting side-ways iin theback. Luggage on the roof !
As no-one ever seems to rush themselves here we didn稚 leave until 9:30. Very cosy and bumppy for our 4.5 hour trip. The 典oy Train・runs on narrow tracks along the road, winding its way up the hill. Can see why it takes the train 8 ・ hours, with chickens, monkey, cricket games and traffic jams all blocking the tracks. It might be a pretty view but would recommned the jeep ride instead!
It should take 3 ・3.5 and we were making good time until we hit a random village traffic jam that kept us almost stationary for 1 hour. N many [parts of the road it is only wide enough for one car at a time. But as everyone tries to get through anyway, no-one gets anywhere
All the locals up here lok very different to Calcuttans. Tibetan-nepalese features (roundier faces) but most dressed in saris. The air is getting cooler and you can smell the difference. Continued up-hill for and by :40 we arrived. 15oC up here. Darjeeling is like a large simple village from yester-year. Little traffic ( no rickshaws as too hilly), only simply shops or stalls, no chain restaurants or big hotels, just very calming. We had to plod helplessly to find Andy’s Guest House (RS400 per room per night), which is nice – basic but clean. Had lunch in Fiesta overlooking the main square, not recommended for lunch but they do very good porridge and French toast for breakfast.
As this is a weeknd treat we decided to visit the Windamere (posh hotel) for afternoon tea. Were quite surprised when the receptioniost \told us it would be Rs 250 for tea and cake (that’s only 3pounds 50 but when you think it is more than our guest house per prson, it felt like a lot – your perception of expensive changes when ou are here)
Still, we sat in the garden and considered the view down into the valley as an waiter dressed in old-fashioned uniform served us two huge pots of Darjeeling tea, and a plate each of cucumber sandwiches, two bits of banana cake and a cinnamen twist – mmmmmm, good. Got chatting to a nice middle-aged group of hikers who were staying in the Windamere. They were very interested in our work in Calcutta and even offered to get us more cake form inside the hotel (they have a free tea buffet for guests!).
We gave the waitor our Rs1000 but then the receptionist came back out with I and explained “the English gentleman had paid for us”. We were al very touched as this was a big amount opf money for us (though not a lot in western terms!) and it cheered us all day.
The inside of he Windamere looks just like it must have during the Raj. Open fire was lit and the bathroom was huge- very elegant.
Many Tibetan craft stalls and shops- no hassle from shop-keepers whoch makes a ncie change. Darjeeling prone to power cuts – most stalls are lit by candles or gas lamps – luckily we brought our torches as several times lights went out in the hotel – gets dark about 6pm.
We went to Glenary’s for dinner – v good Jalfrezie. By 9:30 the whole place is still and quiet
Wondered through the maze of the chowk bazaar. Lunch in Glenary’s pattiserie – good cakes and tea. Smelt different tea, bought mush (there is a huge range in price. Had afternoon tea and cookies in “the Tea House”. Tried white tea, green tea and sunshine Sherry. Dinner tonight was in Delwinney hotel – Tibetan food good – the bread is a must.
Tried to get up at 4 on Monday to go to Tiger Hill to watch sunrise over the Himalayas. But raining heavy and low mist so no jeeps going. Bck to bed – will see them another time.
Wondered about in th drizzle and had lunch I the Park hotel – good food, recommnedit.
Election day so most stuff clopsed. Eventually found a jeep driver to bring us back down to Siliguri but had to pay extra. Did mean it was just the 4 of us which was heaps more cmfotable. IN Ghoom the please wouldn’t let us go thrugh so we had to take a detour and go the long way. Stopped to admire Nepal fom across the valley then all of a sudden we stopped in a small village with a boarder check point. This was an entry point into Nepal and the driver let us have a walk to nosey. He spoke to the offical scary man with gun at the check point who then let us walk through so we cvould take a picture in Nepal. Not allowed to stay long or take pictures of the “India” sign or the boarder but was amusing to have everyone looking at us.
Stopped off in another wee town – Mikak to admire the lake and strech our legs. Most of the way down was through the most beautiful tea plantations. I was in heaven. The driver told us which were the good tea and whoch not. Most have been making good time as we made another stop in some random place to have chai. The driver bought us each a cup and showed us to the “toilet” If you gotta go you gotts go – even LA braved it – there was no light which is probably a good thing.Back at NJP for 6:20 (gave driver a tip[ as he had made the trip down really interes\ting. Tain o time, left at 7:40 prompt. Have berths parallel to the window which time.
Arrived back at 6:30 and got taxi back to flat by 7am. Time for an hours kip before ready for work! Much tea and fun was had by all –very relaxing. Hot and bothered now we are back to the madness.
